
I approach Michelin-starred restaurants with caution, because a lot of the things that Michelin raters seem to care about are things that I don’t care about. Happily, Published on Main avoids all of these pitfalls, while still definitely deserving it star.

There is no presumption here. The servers are not wearing uniforms, and their interaction with guests is friendly and informative. Yes, the plates are served in a fairly synchronized fashion for each course, but without an elaborate show or pretense. Wine and water service is attentive, and meal pacing is perfect.

We had the tasting menu which, counting all the little bites, consisted of more than 20 courses. Every single item was stellar. Standouts included the pickerel, the forest elixir (a broth) and the very unique saltspring chevre cheese course.

There were multiple desserts as well, but they avoided sugar overload and were consistently interesting.

We had the premium wine pairing to accompany the meal, and seven of the eight wines were interesting and perfect matches without being the bizarre sorts of things sommeliers sometimes come up with. Each one was presented with an informative description of its provenance and why it was being served with a particular dish.
This is certainly the best restaurant I have been to in Vancouver so far, and it is justly deserving of its praise.