Vancouver’s West End has a wealth of exquisite omakase experiences. Tetsu is a standout among them for a few reasons:
1. It’s been around longer than some
2. It has been recognized among the top 50 restaurants in all of Canada
3. It has consecutive years of Michelin recommendations
But the reason that I particularly like Tetsu is because you can enjoy a wonderful omakase experience while sitting at a table for two and enjoying intimate conversation, rather than feeling like you have to be focused on the chef preparing each dish. (The restaurant is tiny—twelve seats total, of which up to four may be at the sushi bar.)
That’s not to say that the food is not still the primary focus. Everything that we had was absolutely delightful, and the variety made the meal consistently interesting without getting into what I sometimes call nigiri fatigue.
I particularly found the miso soup at the start of the meal a good example of what makes for a great omakase. The serving was just enough to really enjoy the flavors without getting too full to enjoy the coming 20 courses. There was a complexity to it that I have not encountered in any miso soup before.
This was followed by an assortment of appetizers that were each distinct and unique among all of the omakase experiences I’ve encountered. As is often the case, sometimes the seemingly simplest things are the standouts. I was particularly fond of the corn chowder that came with this course.
I also really liked the decision to serve nearly all of the nigiri dishes in pairs. Rather than being handed nigiri one at a time, as is so often the case in an omakase restaurant. Here two pieces are plated together allowing you to compare and contrast the subtleties between the different preparations.
It would be hard to pick a favorite amongst all of the nigiri served. There were a total of 14 offerings, and each had a distinct place in the sequence (with the possible exception of the spot prawn, which I still find to be a gooey mess).
Certainly, the octopus was by far the most tender I had ever been served. It had been simmered, but still, I’ve never had octopus that melted in my mouth before. The citrus pepper paste served on the Hokkaido scallop was another standout. My wife, who doesn’t particularly like eggs, was surprised that the Tamago (which had been torched to create a brulee on top) was among her favorites.
Many 20-course meals end with a succession of desserts, each trying to top the previous one. Here they instead picked what I think was a stellar way to end the meal with a flavorful and yet light white coffee pudding.
In the end, we felt we had had just the right amount of food and certainly had gotten our $200 worth from this remarkable experience.
It’s difficult online to determine what the beverage offerings are, so we had brought a bottle of champagne, which I always find to be the perfect accompaniment for sushi. It turns out that they do have a limited wine list that includes one champagne, and the pricing is reasonable. If you like sake (which we don’t particularly care for), there is an extensive sake list available.
The service was certainly Michelin-caliber: precise, friendly, and informative. This is definitely a restaurant we will be returning to time and again.
