This is a concept with a proud history in France. I have fond memories of visiting L’Ami Louis in Paris, Robert Parker’s favorite bistro, where they serve nothing but Entrecôte and Pommes Frites. When you do only one thing, you need to do it perfectly, and sadly, that was not the case here. I really wanted to like this restaurant more. Admittedly, it had only been open three days when we went, but they failed at the one thing that mattered, which was serving a great piece of beef.
Everything else about the meal was great. The ambiance was wonderful. The service was good. The wine list, though short, is well chosen to accompany their sole entrée. The salad was good. The French bread, although a bit dried out, was the right type and served with an authentic mustard. The fries were superb. The sauce served with the meat, which each restaurant handles differently, was also terrific, a herbaceous version of Bearnaise, if you will. The meat, though, was not so much. It was tough, largely flavorless, and riddled with gristle, not just mine but my wife’s also, admittedly, probably from the same cow.
The waiter, when he saw that my plate was covered with half-chewed pieces that I could not manage to reduce to something that could be swallowed, apologized and said that they were changing suppliers. Although the samples they got from this supplier had been good, they had received complaints about the meat from others, not just us. That’s all well and good, and I appreciate his honesty. When the bill arrived and no adjustment had been made for what was obviously a collection of meat, I felt that acknowledging the problem was only half of the solution.
We finished the meal with a delightfully light and exquisitely flavored chocolate mousse and a nicely done crème brûlée, although for my taste the crust could have been a bit more burnt. Both were excellent. Sadly, I probably would not return to give them another chance, but that does not mean that they don’t deserve another look. If they get their meat supplier under control, it has the potential to be a very good choice for a very affordable and traditional French steak. Until then, since there are no other options on the menu, I can’t be any more enthusiastic.
